As crazy as I am sometimes my life actually runs pretty normal. Take today for example. Work was boring but functional (it lets me go to school at night). I came home and ran about 5 miles with the roomies, and then shot over to the ocean for a sunset surf session.
The surf is stupid big right now - at least for a novice like myself. We seem to be getting some sort of storm surge that is sending in the biggies. They are about the size of waves we only get in the winter. I dropped in on a few tonight but one of them OWNED me and I got rolled something fierce. The amount of water coming in behind them was pretty intense. I only ended up with a little cut on my shin from something - not sure what. In any case we caught a good sunset, the water was warm, and I threw down a couple of big waves. Good, good evening. Thank God.
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